This spare, Mexicantown restaurant makes some of the best tamales around. Spicy, but not too much. Chopped pork or chicken is jacketed with sturdy masa, a dough of ground corn, and then wrapped tightly in a corn husk and steamed. A few, with a side of rice, make a meal. Eat in, or order a dozen for later. B, L & D Mon.-Sat., B & L Sun.