Still at the top after more than 30 years, The Lark always has been consistent in food and service. Jim and Mary Lark hover over their 12-table European country inn decorated in vibrant, colorful Portuguese tiling. The dining room has only a dozen tables, which are set in brightly colored porcelain and crystal stemware. Chef John Somerville, only the fifth since it opened, took over the kitchen in 2006. Its signature dish is Rack of Lamb Genghis Khan, each of which comes with a numbered certificate. Items on the menu change weekly, but fixtures include roast prime beef rib and Yorkshire pudding, Maryland soft-shell crabs (in season), sautéed Dover sole, and lobster thermidor. D Tue.-Sat.