This quintessential slice of Italy, in a shopping center north of M-59, is the creation of three key players in the departed II Posto - Manager Rito Lisi, Executive Chef Daniele Dell'Acqua, and Sous-chef Mauro Querio - but without II Posto's theatrics. The food is excellent. The service is crisp, knowledgeable, and friendly without being pompous. The decor is modern and the furnishings are eclectic. From the vast selection of pasta dishes, try the bucatini made with pancetta, onion red wine, and tomato sauce. Or the linguine with basil, pine nuts, garlic, green beans, and diced potatoes. Worth trying from meat selection: saltimbocca alla Romana, or veal scaloppini sauteed in white wine and lemon. Also, the veal tenderloin rolls filled with pancetta, parsley, and garlic, in a tomato sauce. What distinguishes the cooking here is the gentleness of the flavoring. D Tue.-Sun.