With its chicly understated, monochromatic decor, bar and tables seating just 65, and pared-down menu of fresh, seasonal dishes - many with ingredients from local purveyors - this new spot shows all the signs of becoming a downtown Birmingham classic. The open kitchen at the back of the room turns out such dishes as whole trout with pancetta, watercress, and fennel; roasted chicken with grilled savoy cabbage; and wine-compatible appetizers. Wine is served by the glass, the pitcher (two and a half glasses), or bottle, and the list is eclectic and interesting. D Mon.-Sat. Br Sun.